Need a band saw

[rob39]

Looking at the Axminster HBS250N and Record BS250 Band saws. Need one to cut shapes in soft and hardwoods of various thicknesses. Cut lengths of wood to size so to make mirrors, tables etc but of course have a limited budget. Need a motor with plenty of grunt, and these 2 appear to be at the right price. Any reviews or know of other saws at similar prices.

 

[wcndave]

Cutting lengths of wood to size really needs a table saw, or mitre saw, I think you'll struggle with this. I have a similar sized bandsaw, and quickly moved in a bigger on (1hp not 1/2 hp like those you list), and I would still struggle to cut ends to finish quality.

For ripping wood, cutting shapes, and general cutting you'd probably be ok, however those saws don't have much grunt.

Probably the best thing you could do would be to find someone with a 1/2 hp bandsaw, and take a bit of wood, and give it a go.

BTW: The only real difference between the axminster and the record, is that the record doesn't come with a base.

 

[memzey]

Agree with Dave above on the use of a mitre saw or saw bench for cutting stock to length. If you really want a bandsaw I'd recommend getting a second hand, British made Startrite 352. That will cover 99% of the jobs 99% of amateur woodworkers need a bandsaw for. You should be able to get a single phase one in good condition for under £600.

 

[rob39]

Probably should have mentioned ripping small logs down so to make signs and lengths of wood for scrolling. Don't intend on ripping large lengths or trees down

 

[Walney Col]

Probably should have mentioned ripping small logs down so to make signs and lengths of wood for scrolling. Don't intend on ripping large lengths or trees down

I too use a band saw for ripping down small logs for scrolling and I've just got a Lumberjack 254 (https://www.lumberjacktools.co.uk/produ ... w-lum00028 ) which can cut to a height of 6 inch which I think is about as good as it gets for a 10" saw.

I've only had it a couple of weeks so don't know it inside out yet but I've been very happy with it so far, it IS a tad underpowered for 6" IMO but my biggest niggle is that that I wish there was some sort of rudimentary blade tension indicator as constantly switching between a 6mm and a 13mm blade as I do can involve a fair bit of guesswork. The blade that comes with it isn't brilliant (12mm or 13mm) but it's not the worst I've ever seen on a small bandsaw either.

One thing to note... the guy in the video they've got up there as some sort of "review" claims that all there was to do was put the legs on. That is NOT correct... as with most saws the table is not attached and the roller guides on mine were way out straigt from the box so expect an hour or two's fiddling before you can turn it on. Easy enough things to do of course, but it makes you wonder a little bit when they manufacturer post a video about their product on thier own web site which isn't factually correct.

Col.

 

[YorkshireMartin]

Probably should have mentioned ripping small logs down so to make signs and lengths of wood for scrolling. Don't intend on ripping large lengths or trees down

I'd spend time reading about bandsaws to make sure of suitability for your needs and gaining knowledge of how to appraise them. Don't rush if you can avoid it. My thoughts echo memzey's. You simply cannot buy the type of quality that an older Startrite 352 offers, unless you're willing to spend in excess of £2k. A 352 will do all you ask of it. It might take some effort to fix up, but once that is done, it will outlive you. The Axminster and Record you noted are nowhere near the level of overall quality you'd get from a Startrite 352. If you go the Startrite route, buy from a school, which all but guarantees low usage.

Having gone through this exact same scenario myself, despite the major frustrations I encountered at times, I'd still highly recommend it over anything modern of far eastern origin.

The blade makes all the difference to bandsaw performance and along with many others on this forum I use blades from Tuffsaws exclusively. Ian, the proprietor, is knowledgeable and understands the meaning of customer service!

A good 352 from a school, if you're patient, should set you back no more than £500. Internet auctions carry an enormous premium due to the popularity of these saws and the general lazyness of people looking for them lol.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Probably should have mentioned ripping small logs down so to make signs and lengths of wood for scrolling. Don't intend on ripping large lengths or trees down

Sorry, you won't rip much with anything with a half horse motor.

 

[scosteve]

I have access to giant saw when needed but mostly use a bs250 and its well used. Works like a dream, for me. The 5yr guarantee swayed my choice.
4" softwoods are no problem never tried hard wood thicker than 2/2.5" on it but if taking it real slow I'm sure it would manage it but would prob be quicker doing that by hand lol. Seriously it would
Obviously set up correctly with TS blades but it is still just a hobby saw.
There's quite often used bs300's going close to the price of a bs250 new.
That's if getting old school isn't an option.

Good luck

 

[woodpig]

Might be worth keeping an eye on item number 152174716134 on the bay if you're up for a drive. Being 3 phase wouldn't put me off if it goes for the right price.

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I have the Axminster bandsaw. With the right blade - not too many TPI - it will rip or cross cut up to 4" albeit slowly. Anything larger is not really feasible - but fine on both hardwood and softwood up to about 2".

Given its capacity and power constraints it seems a decent saw but if you want to play with logs you really need something larger!

Terry

 

[Bodgers]

Agree with Terry. Somebody disagreed with me on another thread saying these 250mm 10" Bandsaws are man enough, but my experience tells me different. "Plenty of Grunt" is not how you would describe the 250W motor in the Axy. I sold mine within a year for a larger more powerful model. I recommend the 900W 12" Makita lbf1200f.

Also agree with comments about you needing something different to a Bandsaw (ironically, given the title of your thread). A Bandsaw is the second most used tool for me, but in your use-case where you aren't ripping/resawing/curve cutting much, you are probably better off with a Tablesaw and a crosscut sled or the best sliding mitre saw you can find with minimal slop in the action.



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[MikeJhn]

Used my table saw to take off one edge, then the planner to straighten out the cut, then again to square up, then a band saw to cut to approximate thickness, then the thichnesser to regularise and then the table router to make the profile.







Hope this helps
Mike

 

[rob39]

How does the Scheppach HBS300 stand up??
http://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-hbs ... 240v/9424f

 

[MikeJhn]

I used a Record power RS350S on those oak logs above, its a 14" and has a 1.5hp motor, picked it up for £400.00 second hand on the "For Sale" thread here, more than adequate for the job, but would not like to rip them down with something less powerful.

Mike

 

[wkerswell]

I am looking to get a saw too. I did notice that on the Axminster site they do have a new hobby saw HBS200N. Kind of wondering what that is like. I was going to get the SCHEPPACH BASA 1 from screw fix for £180 but from what I have heard Axminster are the better option to go with.

 

[DiscoStu]

I'd agree with Terry. I have the Axminster. I bought it on a bit of a whim when it was on a deal. I thought a table saw and a CSMS was all I'd need. Turns out I use my Bandsaw more than any other.

A little while ago I bought a tuff saw blade after people raved about them on here and I also changed to the faster cutting option and it made it soooo much better.

However if it went bang and I had to buy a replacement I'd buy a much bigger and more powerful beast as it gets used a lot and it does struggle with anything more than about 4" or so. It will do more but it's very slow and I don't have the patience!


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