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- Thread starter Claymore
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finneyb
Established Member
Brian,
Welcome
A quick look on the web shows that LIDL sells/sold the scrollsaw - so its not looking too good. The Manual is here http://www.lidl-service.com/static/8887 ... _PT_EN.pdf English version is towards the end.
To cut the vibrations down cut the speed down - it is variable speed. The vibration problem will not be helped by the stroke length of 21mm other saws have both 10mm and 20mm. 10mm stroke would do you for 4mm pine and it would cut the vibration down - check if the stroke length can be varied. For my saw Page 17 of the Axminster manual shows how to do it use the diagram to see if it can be done with yours http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf
If its the original blades I would change them - typical blade manufacturers are are Pegas, Olsen, Flying Dutchman - internet sales usually.
Blade not square could be an issue, however it depends what you want to use it for. If its out of square side to side can you adjust the table to compensate?
Manual says lubricate the bearings - this may help if it hasn't been used in a while.
HTH
Brian
Welcome
A quick look on the web shows that LIDL sells/sold the scrollsaw - so its not looking too good. The Manual is here http://www.lidl-service.com/static/8887 ... _PT_EN.pdf English version is towards the end.
To cut the vibrations down cut the speed down - it is variable speed. The vibration problem will not be helped by the stroke length of 21mm other saws have both 10mm and 20mm. 10mm stroke would do you for 4mm pine and it would cut the vibration down - check if the stroke length can be varied. For my saw Page 17 of the Axminster manual shows how to do it use the diagram to see if it can be done with yours http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf
If its the original blades I would change them - typical blade manufacturers are are Pegas, Olsen, Flying Dutchman - internet sales usually.
Blade not square could be an issue, however it depends what you want to use it for. If its out of square side to side can you adjust the table to compensate?
Manual says lubricate the bearings - this may help if it hasn't been used in a while.
HTH
Brian
finneyb
Established Member
Brian,
I always find recommendations difficult, what suits me doesn't always suit others. Personally, I like Axminster as a company and would look at what they have http://www.axminster.co.uk/catalogsearc ... =scrollsaw . Hegner is a well thought of make on this forum - pricey and Axminster AWFS18 is very similar at a cheaper price. A new Hegner will be out of your price range - you could go to ebay for a second hand one.
The forum has a for sale section that may be useful.
I would go for variable speed, other advice says you don't need it, I found it useful when starting and it does help to control the vibrations. I would also look at the stroke length IMO 20mm is too big as a single option.
I'm sure others will come in with their views
HTH
Brian
I always find recommendations difficult, what suits me doesn't always suit others. Personally, I like Axminster as a company and would look at what they have http://www.axminster.co.uk/catalogsearc ... =scrollsaw . Hegner is a well thought of make on this forum - pricey and Axminster AWFS18 is very similar at a cheaper price. A new Hegner will be out of your price range - you could go to ebay for a second hand one.
The forum has a for sale section that may be useful.
I would go for variable speed, other advice says you don't need it, I found it useful when starting and it does help to control the vibrations. I would also look at the stroke length IMO 20mm is too big as a single option.
I'm sure others will come in with their views
HTH
Brian
Claymore":bjdkfiq7 said:Hi,
Newbie to the forum and I have inherited quite a bit of gear from father in law who used to dabble with wood.
One of the items is a Parkside Scroll saw which at 1st glance looked as new condition and hardly used......... I now know why. I have done as many say and bought some decent blades and set it up in my workshop mounted on a rubber mat (bolted to a worktop) and have been trying to get it to cut a piece of approx 4mm pine...... no chance! it is as rough as a bears behind and vibrates so badly you cannot hold it down, on further investigation i have noticed the arm which goes up and down inside the metal casing is off centre and no amount of adjustment will make a blade parallel/square what a pile of junk! tis a shame as it has some useful features like pinless blade and pinned blade (inside the little blade storage box on the side of the machine is a couple of pinless blade holders).
So not a great start to my woodworking hobby eh? lol.... I do have some other goodies which work fine like a bandsaw and planer/drills etc but looks like the Parkside will end up in the bin unless you have any tips on rescueing the bleeding thing?
Oh well at least i found the forum and will hopefully get to make something decent (one day) lol
Cheers
Brian
Ps I am in Galloway Scotland........ our in a wild bit so we need hobbies to keep us sane (ish) 9-)
Brian.
Welcome to the forum, hope you get your saw sorted, or if not find an alternative one, as said in the post above, Hegner is one of the best saws, and they do appear from time to time on the used market.
I am sure you will get sorted soon, and if your scroll saw work, is half as good as your wildlife photography, it will be outstanding.
How do I know that, :?: (DPS).
Take care.
Chris R.
Brian.
I have been on this forum for some time, but not as long as I have been scroll/fret sawing, that started when I was just seven or eight, my uncle who was a cabinet maker gave me a hand fretsaw set for my birthday, my sister who is the artistic one would draw animal and Disney characters on to ply wood for me to cut out, that was many, many moons ago.
Yes, your photos are something special both the wild life and your macro work. I am still a member of the DPS, and visit the forum from time to time, plus the Pentax forum. I started with film photography approximately 1970, and did my own processing etc. However I have never really cracked the digital photo thing, never did achieve uploading images to the DPS forum, despite great help from yourself and John Abbott. It’s the same with this forum, no go with uploading photos, but I do keep a photographic record of my work. Computer skills near to zero and with this new Windows 8.1, its below zero. :?
Back to the subject of scroll saws, if you can stretch your budget to a Hegner, new or used you would not be disappointed, I will now be called a Hegner snob, but I have been called a lot worse. Regarding Parkside tools from Lidl, I think some are good, but others a bit iffy, I have a Parkside sliding mitre saw, orbital sander, and angle grinder all good (hobby use), but a belt sander stripped its gears after just a little work. :evil:
You said about designing some patterns, but if you want any free patterns to use or as ideas, Steve Good’s scroll saw workshop, web site is worth a visit, hundreds of free patterns covering many subjects.
http://www.stevedgood.com/web/catalog
Take care.
Chris R.
I have been on this forum for some time, but not as long as I have been scroll/fret sawing, that started when I was just seven or eight, my uncle who was a cabinet maker gave me a hand fretsaw set for my birthday, my sister who is the artistic one would draw animal and Disney characters on to ply wood for me to cut out, that was many, many moons ago.
Yes, your photos are something special both the wild life and your macro work. I am still a member of the DPS, and visit the forum from time to time, plus the Pentax forum. I started with film photography approximately 1970, and did my own processing etc. However I have never really cracked the digital photo thing, never did achieve uploading images to the DPS forum, despite great help from yourself and John Abbott. It’s the same with this forum, no go with uploading photos, but I do keep a photographic record of my work. Computer skills near to zero and with this new Windows 8.1, its below zero. :?
Back to the subject of scroll saws, if you can stretch your budget to a Hegner, new or used you would not be disappointed, I will now be called a Hegner snob, but I have been called a lot worse. Regarding Parkside tools from Lidl, I think some are good, but others a bit iffy, I have a Parkside sliding mitre saw, orbital sander, and angle grinder all good (hobby use), but a belt sander stripped its gears after just a little work. :evil:
You said about designing some patterns, but if you want any free patterns to use or as ideas, Steve Good’s scroll saw workshop, web site is worth a visit, hundreds of free patterns covering many subjects.
http://www.stevedgood.com/web/catalog
Take care.
Chris R.
Brian.
What can be said, other than that is very good service indeed, also interesting that Parkside is made by Einhell.
I have an Einhell SDS drill, I think was purchased from Screwfix, a few years ago now, and that has taken a fair amount of punishment both in drilling and concrete chiselling mode.
Looks as if you will soon be up and running.
Chris R.
What can be said, other than that is very good service indeed, also interesting that Parkside is made by Einhell.
I have an Einhell SDS drill, I think was purchased from Screwfix, a few years ago now, and that has taken a fair amount of punishment both in drilling and concrete chiselling mode.
Looks as if you will soon be up and running.
Chris R.
finneyb
Established Member
Brian,
Suggestion - take the cast eccentric piece that comes off the motor from the old saw.
Measure the eccentricity of the hole from the centre of the cast piece.
Drill/tap another hole at one half of this eccentricity - that should reduce the stroke length.
I'd make a cardboard flat scale model to make sure.
If the two holes are too close together and look as though they will weaken the casting I'd epoxy the original hole first.
HTH
Brian
Suggestion - take the cast eccentric piece that comes off the motor from the old saw.
Measure the eccentricity of the hole from the centre of the cast piece.
Drill/tap another hole at one half of this eccentricity - that should reduce the stroke length.
I'd make a cardboard flat scale model to make sure.
If the two holes are too close together and look as though they will weaken the casting I'd epoxy the original hole first.
HTH
Brian
Brian.
Re the stroke length on your saw, when I read your post I assumed that you wanted to lengthen the stroke may be I was wrong.
However I can’t think of any better way of changing the stroke length than the information given by Brian (finneyb) in fact this is the way the stroke length is adjusted in principle on a Hegner.
As a guide of stroke length, my Hegner Multicut 2 is :-
Standard/Long stroke = 15mm.
Short stroke = 12mm.
The 15mm stroke is used for most materials, with the 12mm stroke being for very thin material, laminates etc.
I have cut a wide verity of materials/thickness over the years of having the saw and never used the short stroke setting.
Hope this is of help.
Chris R.
Re the stroke length on your saw, when I read your post I assumed that you wanted to lengthen the stroke may be I was wrong.
However I can’t think of any better way of changing the stroke length than the information given by Brian (finneyb) in fact this is the way the stroke length is adjusted in principle on a Hegner.
As a guide of stroke length, my Hegner Multicut 2 is :-
Standard/Long stroke = 15mm.
Short stroke = 12mm.
The 15mm stroke is used for most materials, with the 12mm stroke being for very thin material, laminates etc.
I have cut a wide verity of materials/thickness over the years of having the saw and never used the short stroke setting.
Hope this is of help.
Chris R.
finneyb
Established Member
Brian,
If your doing a mock up also try reducing the length of the link that holds the bearings.
Not sure how you can reduce the length of the link, but it may be possible, especially as you have one to play with.
My AWFS18 has 10mm and 20mm stroke lengths. It came set on the 10mm stroke, but because I was cutting 20mm thick I moved it to the 20mm stroke, feeling that it would clear the sawdust better than the 10mm stroke and use more of the blade thereby reducing wear - not that I'm tight, you understand.
Seem to remember reading that you want at least three teeth in the material you are cutting so the stroke length will be governed by the material thickness and the tpi of the blade.
HTH
Brian
If your doing a mock up also try reducing the length of the link that holds the bearings.
Not sure how you can reduce the length of the link, but it may be possible, especially as you have one to play with.
My AWFS18 has 10mm and 20mm stroke lengths. It came set on the 10mm stroke, but because I was cutting 20mm thick I moved it to the 20mm stroke, feeling that it would clear the sawdust better than the 10mm stroke and use more of the blade thereby reducing wear - not that I'm tight, you understand.
Seem to remember reading that you want at least three teeth in the material you are cutting so the stroke length will be governed by the material thickness and the tpi of the blade.
HTH
Brian
martinka
Established Member
If you take the balancer off to drill it, mark it to make sure it goes back in the same place or the saw will probably try to go walkies when you turn it on. Most likely the balancer is self locating on the motor shaft, but better to be safe than sorry.
By the way, if/when you get p'd off with those clamps, or if one breaks, the cheap Axminster clamps will fit straight on that saw. Difficult to tell from a photo, but those clamps look to be better quality than the ones I managed to break.
By the way, if/when you get p'd off with those clamps, or if one breaks, the cheap Axminster clamps will fit straight on that saw. Difficult to tell from a photo, but those clamps look to be better quality than the ones I managed to break.
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