My Attempt at a review of the new Stanley 60.5 Block Plane

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cutting42

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Hi Gang

Well this is a bit of a first for me as I am not much of a hand tool user yet. However following a few hints I managed to get agreement for a nice plane for my birthday (I also got a No4 and some Footprint chisels but they will be reviewed later). This first review is just for the 60.5 and with the exception of using my dad's tools about 30 years ago is the first time I have used a decent plane so my comparisons are very much as a newby. I was very tempted with the LV/LV block planes but the cost just was a mental block for me and I would only have been able to have the one plane. I did take a look and I can see why they are popular but anyhoo, we are here for Stanley.

I think part of me has an affection for the Stanley name, it seems like a very traditional and reliable name, so when it was announced a while back that they would be releasing an updated range of planes, my interest was piqued, so much so that as soon as I had the new Tilgear catalogue I wizzed down there and purchased the 60.5.

Here it is in its box and packaging:

IMG_1100.jpg


IMG_1101.jpg


And in its paper wrapping

IMG_1102.jpg


It seemed very heavy to me which feels nice and the shape of the dimple in the side fits the fingers well. The other thing that struck me was the quality of the casting and how well finished the ductile Iron body was.

IMG_1103.jpg


The second item that impressed me was the thickness of the blade and how easy it was to disassemble the plane into its constituant parts, all of which are reallly well machined with smooth operation.

IMG_1105.jpg


IMG_1114.jpg


The adjustable mouth is a bit of a mystery to me, I can see how it works, I just don't know why? Or what determines how you set it. I set it about 1mm from the blade once I set the depth which seemed to work ok.

IMG_1107.jpg


IMG_1110.jpg


The adjuster is a Norris type I am reliably informed and it is fantastic, especially coming from el B&Q special. The adjuster is real smooth and the side to side adjustment is so easy to use I am very impressed. The Black thingy that holds the blade in place is an Aluminium alloy I guess as it is pretty light but the brass tightening adjuster works well and you can set it very accurately to allow for adjusting with some drag on the blade to get very fine settings.

IMG_1113.jpg


The blade is chunky as I mentioned before and I have not sharpened it yet as my workshop is in turmoil due to major reorganisation. However the bevel was mirror like at the tip (not quite captured that in the picture but trust me it was) but the back could certainly use finishing off. Does one use a micro bevel on a Block plane - that would change the angle wouldn't it? Told you I was a newby!

I cleaned it up and set up for some shavings and this is what I got:

IMG_1115.jpg


IMG_1118.jpg


I was very happy with the planing along the grain but was struggling a bit with cross grain but that might be a combination of my poor technique and the blade not being as sharp as it could be although it cut hairs from my arm very effectively. Also the wood I had to hand was some rough old pine and Iroko, not sure if these are difficult or not.

I hope this has been of use to you all, I would highly recommend the plane with the caveat of my limited experience. No4 to follow soon I hope.
 
Noice! I really like the new blocks, very slick...

Not a bad review sir, but with reference to the mouth opening, it can be opened for heavier cuts and closed up (not actually closed, obviously) for fine shavings...

Looks good though, honestly I don't want one :^o

Also could you move the last picture so it's below the other one, there's only about half the text on my screen :?
 
Calpol":2pz77yby said:
but with reference to the mouth opening, it can be opened for heavier cuts and closed up (not actually closed, obviously) for fine shavings...

Ta for that, makes sense.

Calpol":2pz77yby said:
Also could you move the last picture so it's below the other one, there's only about half the text on my screen :?

Your wish is my command 8)
 
Much better 8)

You're better off putting a micro bevel on the blade, in fact I don't know a reason not to! I'm all for back bevels as well :D
 
cutting42":1vrtlv6p said:
IMG_1113.jpg


The blade is chunky as I mentioned before and I have not sharpened it yet as my workshop is in turmoil due to major reorganisation. However the bevel was mirror like at the tip (not quite captured that in the picture but trust me it was) but the back could certainly use finishing off.

Interesting - it sounds as if the blade is given a quick strop or buffer wheel (or similar) at the factory, so that it's usable immediately.

Given that most "regular" woodworkers would expect to hone their own blades, this (IMHO) is a marketing decision aimed at newcomers.

You need to be very careful when flattening the back - especially when using SiC paper, it's rather easy to dub the corners. Use fresh paper, glued down, and around 240 grit at the coarsest.

We (I!) would be most interested to hear how flat the back of the blade is - it looks nicely ground, so I would expect "fairly damn flat".

Add; the reason for flattening the back (in chisels and block plane blades *) is purely so that a (flat) fine stone can polish the back. The back must be polished (at least next to the edge) so that the edge can be truly sharp. There's damn all point working to create a beautifully honed and polished bevel is the other side of the edge is rough.


BugBear

(*) in a conventional bevel down bench plane, the other reason for a flat back is so that cap iron can make a good fit.
 
bugbear":2ru96lnh said:
Interesting - it sounds as if the blade is given a quick strop or buffer wheel (or similar) at the factory, so that it's usable immediately.

Given that most "regular" woodworkers would expect to hone their own blades, this (IMHO) is a marketing decision aimed at newcomers.

We (I!) would be most interested to hear how flat the back of the blade is - it looks nicely ground, so I would expect "fairly damn flat".

BugBear

Got a better pic of the bevel and I am a newby and it was nice to be able to use it "out of the box" and also to know I can improve it.

IMG_1120.jpg


and a pic of the back

IMG_1122.jpg


seems very flat, but other than my steel straight edge I have no means of testing the flatness, dial gauge etc. I am looking forward to trying to flatten it, thanks for the words of caution.
 
Certainly looks like Stanley are attempting to enter the premium end of the market, I guess this can only be a good thing. I wonder what the 3 main plane makers think, have to ask at West Dean.
 
newt":14cb5znh said:
Certainly looks like Stanley are attempting to enter the premium end of the market, I guess this can only be a good thing. I wonder what the 3 main plane makers think, have to ask at West Dean.
Pete - I agree...I wonder if any of the new Stanley planes will be at WD over the weekend? - Rob
 
Very useful review and excellent pictures. Thanks for posting.

Iroko is a tough wood but I've found it usually more consistent to plane than pine which can be a real PITA around knots and wild grain.
 
Evergreen":244ilm7k said:
Very useful review and excellent pictures. Thanks for posting.

Iroko is a tough wood but I've found it usually more consistent to plane than pine which can be a real PITA around knots and wild grain.

Some Iroko has "striped" (AKA "rowed") grain, which is quite tricky.

BugBear
 
Thanks for your review (so far). Although I'm loathe to support Stanley, I'm curious to see if their new range is any good, and I'm sure many others are too.
cutting42":13h3tz1z said:
.... other than my steel straight edge I have no means of testing the flatness, dial gauge etc.
Have you run that straight edge over the plane's sole? I'd also be interested to know if the sides are at 90° to the sole.

Cheers, Vann.
 
Had a go at taking a pic of the squareness with my engineers square and a bright light behind. Not too bad is my impression, but I don't have much to compare with.

IMG_1126.jpg

IMG_1127-1.jpg
 
Vann":2bax2ht8 said:
Thanks for your review (so far). Although I'm loathe to support Stanley, I'm curious to see if their new range is any good, and I'm sure many others are too.
cutting42":2bax2ht8 said:
.... other than my steel straight edge I have no means of testing the flatness, dial gauge etc.
Have you run that straight edge over the plane's sole? I'd also be interested to know if the sides are at 90° to the sole.

Cheers, Vann.

It is possible (if Stanley are being clever) that they didn't expend effort (and therefore your and my money) making the sides accurately 90 degrees in this model, which will pretty much never be used for shooting.

It would therefore be unwise (IMHO) to extrapolate the likely accuracy of the sides of the Stanley LA Jack from the measured accuracy of the block plane.

BugBear
 
Realistically, you will only know if it is really flat when you come to flatten it! I do this using freshly flattened (using a coarse diamond stone) waterstones. I had a holed blade for my LN 60 1/2 which, as you would expect, was truly excellent and the blade of my new Veritas nix 60 was almost as good. Flatness of the back of the blade is a good measure of the care a maker takes. Judging by the photos of the Stanley blade, sharpness could certainly be taken to a significantly higher level by flattening the back (or putting a back bevel on it) and honing the bevel.

Jim
 
bugbear":1y5ot8x3 said:
opinions and photos of the new #4 over here:
Yup, and some joker by the handle "Bugbear" has already offered his comments (probably nobody we know....). :D

Cheers, Vann.
 
Vann":2ng93q4g said:
bugbear":2ng93q4g said:
opinions and photos of the new #4 over here:
Yup, and some joker by the handle "Bugbear" has already offered his comments (probably nobody we know....). :D

Cheers, Vann.

No-one I've ever met, certainly...

BugBear
 
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