Lie-Nielsen No. 10 1/4 Jack Rabbeting Plane

[Tony]

Anybody got one?

What do you think to it? What do you use it for?

I saw RC using one to helop fit his drawers, and have been tempted ever since - apparently I have enough LN planes though (I am told)
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Cheers
Tony

"The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me." — Tony Konovaloff

Fancy cutting some dovetails? Tutorial here

[Scrit]

I don't have the L-N, but I do use a Record #010 for cleaning-up/adjusting joinery-size tenon cheeks and shoulders. I was surprised a few years back to see this type of plane used in a joinery shop specialising in manufacturing hardwood conservatories so I tried one and found it to be just right, especially for cleaning-up hand-cut tenons such as those done on site.

I've recently been using mine to trim stub tenons on joist ends where the joist ends were dropped into blind mortises in wooden wall plates. I found it much quicker and easier to use a plane than a chisel to tune the tenons.

Scrit
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[David C]

Agreed.

Great plane. We used a lot, for fitting large tennons on my bench construction.

David C

[Lord Nibbo]

Like David says you ain't lived until you try one on a large tenon, I mean big tenons like whats in this....







The swiveling tote and knob make it soooo easy, infact I was so impressed I thought I would try it shooting Yes think about it !!!! it f@ed up my shooting board real fast doooh!
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[MarcW]

Hi Tony,

Of course it is an excellent plane. Sure there is a but. You won't use it much. As the iron's edge is straight and not cambered, you don't use it for smoothing or jointing, okay that's clear. The shavings clogg in the cavities of the sides, because they have the width of the iron which is bigger than the inner width from on side to another. After each pass you will have to fiddle out the shaving. The plane is excellent for rabbets, but it has no fence and you will have to work to a marking, because it hasn't a depth stop either. Mine hangs a lot in the tool cabinet, but in a few situations, it is the tool that saves my day. I think of joints that are too big for a shoulder plane or a rabbet block plane.

All these reasons are to convince you that you need one
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Marc

Car la vie est un bien perdu, si on n'a pas vécu comme on l'aurait voulu. (Eminescu; trial of a translation: " 'Cause life is a lost good, if man did not live, the way he would have liked it.")

[Lord Nibbo]

[MarcW]

LN can you tell then how you joint with a straight edged iron? I perfectly realize how you can establish a slight hollw in the length of a board's edge but how can you adjust squareness of the edge to the face without a cambered blade? Given that you do not use Aldren A. Watson's recommendation of setting the blade at uneven depth with the lateral adjustment, which I find works but is at some point a trial and error method for finding the right adjustment, I'd be really enjoyed to learn a new (for me) method.

Here is what I mean, a light out of squareness of the edge:



And here is what I get with a cambered blade of a LN #7 tuned to a smoother:



p.s. You have a nice pair of dogs And did you som wip pics of the hanging bench?
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Marc

Car la vie est un bien perdu, si on n'a pas vécu comme on l'aurait voulu. (Eminescu; trial of a translation: " 'Cause life is a lost good, if man did not live, the way he would have liked it.")

[Lord Nibbo]

[Paul Chapman]

[mr]

[Paul Chapman]

[mr]

As you say it's probably a case of however you started. I don't "get" the curved thing and haven't tried it though it obviously works just as well if not better than any other method. As for matchplaning it's foolproof but not as satisfying as having two separately prepared straight edges. Hmmm I think I'm turning into a nerd. Some would say I started that way.

Cheers Mike

[Paul Chapman]

[Philly]

The advantage of the cambered iron is in removing wind - if the board is true then a straight iron will work fine.
Only my take on it,
Philly
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[AHoman]