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Lord Nibbo Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 18 Oct 2005 Posts: 2445 Location: Near Looe, Cornwall.
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| Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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I think the point DC is making by using a curved iron, by leaving a slight hollow to any two faces when they are glued up and clamped it's easier to get the edges together, or am I wrong? probably where's my coat.  _________________ My Flickr Pics & My Blog |
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Paul Chapman Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 26 Jan 2006 Posts: 6259 Location: Bookham, Surrey
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| Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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What I find interesting is that I've seen DVDs on planing by David Charlesworth, Rob Cosman and Jim Kingshott, and read books by them and many others, and they all work slightly differently. I've found it very useful to draw on all their experiences. I don't think there is any one absolute right way, just lots of different ways to suit the circumstances, the tools available and personal preferences.
Cheers
Paul |
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Paul Kierstead Furniture Maker
Joined: 01 May 2006 Posts: 299 Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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| mr wrote: |
I joint ( & smooth ) with a straight edged iron, I have square edges and no trackmarks (when I'm done smoothing). |
Do you joint starting from a rough board or S4S (or power jointed)? I have had very limited success jointing boards from the rough with a straight iron. I can't seen anyway to control the plane within half a degree just trying to manipulate it's position, and not for lack of trying. Maybe with enough practice I can. |
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mr Cabinetmaker
Joined: 28 Jun 2005 Posts: 1743 Location: Devon
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| Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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HI Paul K ,
Sorry I'm not sure what you mean by S4S. The boards I'm using are rough sawn planks which I then dress, face & edge etc with handplanes of one sort or another. I'm by no means an expert like some round these parts but I do seem to be doing a lot of it and doing a lot of it is certainly one way to get better at it.
I think as Paul C says I'm going to have to see the DVD, got the book so I should see the film I think One of my problems with the whole cambered blade thing is that I'm no great shakes in the sharpening stakes and I have the horrors when it comes to making square irons round.
Again as Paul C said it's a probably a case of different strokes etc, what works for me may not work for thee.
Cheers Mike |
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mr Cabinetmaker
Joined: 28 Jun 2005 Posts: 1743 Location: Devon
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| Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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| Lord Nibbo wrote: | I think the point DC is making by using a curved iron, by leaving a slight hollow to any two faces when they are glued up and clamped it's easier to get the edges together, or am I wrong? probably where's my coat.  |
You can plane an edge slightly hollow with a square edged iron quite easily though. It's just a case of getting the thing straight and square to start and then taking a few stopped shavings from the middle section of the edge. If you do that to both edges that you're going to join your edges should close up nicely. Or isn't that what you meant?
Cheers Mike |
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bugbear Master Cabinetmaker

Joined: 16 Jul 2004 Posts: 3453 Location: North Suffolk
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| Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 8:33 am Post subject: Re: Lie-Nielsen No. 10 1/4 Jack Rabbeting Plane |
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| Tony wrote: | Anybody got one?
What do you think to it? What do you use it for?
I saw RC using one to help fit his drawers, and have been tempted ever since - apparently I have enough LN planes though (I am told) |
Mr Cosman is adept at finding uses for LN tools - he has invented the neccessity of a skew rebate block plane for dovetailing!!
However, for anyone tempting to drop the big money for #10 (of any persuasion) I would recommend picking up a wooden skew rebate. Apart from some minor complexities to be considered in the tuning they are an excellent and versatile tool.
At car boot prices, they're also stupidly cheap (under a fiver).
BugBear _________________ Grinding, sharpening and polishing are really very interesting operations.
...William Henry Bragg |
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AHoman Woodworker
Joined: 04 Nov 2006 Posts: 102 Location: Vermont, U.S.A.
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| Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 1:20 am Post subject: Re: Lie-Nielsen No. 10 1/4 Jack Rabbeting Plane |
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| bugbear wrote: | Rob Cosman [...] has invented the neccessity of a skew rebate block plane for dovetailing!!
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I thought that Rob learned that from Alan Peters. At any rate, I hardly think that he would say that it is a "neccessity" -- after all, he's got two dovetailing videos in which that technique and tool are not used.
-Andy |
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