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fobos8
Woodworker
Joined: 05 Apr 2006
Posts: 167
Location: Jersey
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| Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:12 pm Post subject: Getting a cambered edge on a plane iron? |
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Hi all
Bought the Veritas Low angle Jack plane last week thanks to your recommendations. It is amazing! I use it with the 38 degree blade and it works a treat.
Only problem is when used for smoothing it leaves a mark where the edge of the blade is. How do I stop this mark from apearing. Is it best to camber the blade or could I just round the edges slightly?
If best to camber has anyone used the veritas camber roller? whats it like?
Cheers, Andrew |
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Karl
Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 02 Jul 2007
Posts: 2253
Location: Cheshire
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| Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:14 pm Post subject: |
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I'd just knock the corners off slightly, rather than go for a full camber.
How do you normally sharpen your blades? |
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fobos8
Woodworker
Joined: 05 Apr 2006
Posts: 167
Location: Jersey
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| Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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on site I use the Veritas Honing guide
At home I use Tormek.
How do knock the corners off? Thats what I'd prefer to do. |
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Harbo
Cabinetmaker
Joined: 13 Nov 2006
Posts: 1815
Location: Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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Normally using some finger pressure at the sides works for me - both on the Tormek and using the Veritas.
Veritas also sell a camber wheel adapter to fit the jig.
Rod |
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Derek Cohen (Perth, Oz)
Master Furnituremaker
Joined: 02 Mar 2005
Posts: 1029
Location: Perth, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:39 am Post subject: Re: Getting a cambered edge on a plane iron? |
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| fobos8 wrote: | Hi all
Bought the Veritas Low angle Jack plane last week thanks to your recommendations. It is amazing! I use it with the 38 degree blade and it works a treat.
Only problem is when used for smoothing it leaves a mark where the edge of the blade is. How do I stop this mark from apearing. Is it best to camber the blade or could I just round the edges slightly?
If best to camber has anyone used the veritas camber roller? whats it like?
Cheers, Andrew |
Hi Andrew
I have an article on cambering BU plane blades on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/TheSecretToCamberinBUPlaneBlades.html
Regards from Perth
Derek |
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mr grimsdale
Furniture Maker
Joined: 25 Jan 2010
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:54 am Post subject: |
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Easiest done freehand. Jigs are not much use for cambering, which is why it is discussed endlessly!
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Derek Cohen (Perth, Oz)
Master Furnituremaker
Joined: 02 Mar 2005
Posts: 1029
Location: Perth, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:27 am Post subject: |
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Hi Jacob
Not this time.
I freehand all blades but not those high angle ones used on BU planes - these require a honing guide since the micro secondary bevel angle creates the cutting angle (if you can freehand micro secondary bevels accurately, then you're a better man than I!  ).
Regards from Perth
Derek |
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woodbloke
Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 13 Apr 2006
Posts: 8862
Location: Salisbury,UK...counting down the pay cheques...20, or it might be 19
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:50 am Post subject: |
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The issue with putting a camber on a low angle blade is the bed angle. As this is only 12deg, a much bigger camber needs to be applied compared to a BU blade to get the same degree of cut. I don't bother with a camber on any LA planes but just knock off the corners on the blades - Rob
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bugbear
Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 16 Jul 2004
Posts: 3782
Location: North Suffolk
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:54 am Post subject: |
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| mr grimsdale wrote: | | Easiest done freehand. Jigs are not much use for cambering, which is why it is discussed endlessly! |
There's a thread you might usefully contribute to over on "General"
"Starting a sash window business"
BugBear
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woodbloke
Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 13 Apr 2006
Posts: 8862
Location: Salisbury,UK...counting down the pay cheques...20, or it might be 19
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:19 am Post subject: |
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| bugbear wrote: | | mr grimsdale wrote: | | Easiest done freehand. Jigs are not much use for cambering, which is why it is discussed endlessly! |
There's a thread you might usefully contribute to over on "General"
"Starting a sash window business"
BugBear |
Nice  - Rob
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OPJ
Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 31 Jul 2005
Posts: 5036
Location: North Somerset
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:30 am Post subject: |
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| woodbloke wrote: | | I don't bother with a camber on any LA planes but just knock off the corners on the blades - Rob |
Rob, could you explain how you know the corners off, please? I tried doing this once (one the edge of an oil stone) but it seemed to blunt the iron at the corners and I couldn't get it to cut very well. 
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woodbloke
Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 13 Apr 2006
Posts: 8862
Location: Salisbury,UK...counting down the pay cheques...20, or it might be 19
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:12 am Post subject: |
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| OPJ wrote: | | woodbloke wrote: | | I don't bother with a camber on any LA planes but just knock off the corners on the blades - Rob |
Rob, could you explain how you know the corners off, please? I tried doing this once (one the edge of an oil stone) but it seemed to blunt the iron at the corners and I couldn't get it to cut very well. |
Hi Olly - difficult to explain, easier with a pic  Hold the blade on the stone as if freehand honing the entire edge, then lift the right hand corner by about 30deg (not critical) so that the left hand corner is in contact. A couple of strokes will then remove the corner, repeat for the other corner and then remove the burr on t'other side in the normal way.
Whatever you do, don't to this on a waterstone if you'd like to keep a pristine surface or you'll end up with a nice pointy groove in the stone's surface  Use a diamond stone (not a 'holy' one either) or an old oilstone - Rob
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OPJ
Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 31 Jul 2005
Posts: 5036
Location: North Somerset
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mr grimsdale
Furniture Maker
Joined: 25 Jan 2010
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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| woodbloke wrote: |
Hi Olly - difficult to explain, easier with a pic Hold the blade on the stone as if freehand honing the entire edge, then lift the right hand corner by about 30deg (not critical) so that the left hand corner is in contact. A couple of strokes will then remove the corner, repeat for the other corner and then remove the burr on t'other side in the normal way.
Whatever you do, don't to this on a waterstone if you'd like to keep a pristine surface or you'll end up with a nice pointy groove in the stone's surface Use a diamond stone (not a 'holy' one either) or an old oilstone - Rob |
Or a new oilstone. If you do normal freehand honing you adjust the pressure from one side to the other with a sort of twist. You don't lift the stone off at all and from the outside it doesn't look different from the normal movement - you merely shift the pressure.
This gives you a camber eventually, which is better than knocking the corners off IMHO.
I'ts kinda obvious and with a little practice becomes really easy.
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woodbloke
Master Cabinetmaker
Joined: 13 Apr 2006
Posts: 8862
Location: Salisbury,UK...counting down the pay cheques...20, or it might be 19
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| Posted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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| mr grimsdale wrote: | | woodbloke wrote: |
Hi Olly - difficult to explain, easier with a pic Hold the blade on the stone as if freehand honing the entire edge, then lift the right hand corner by about 30deg (not critical) so that the left hand corner is in contact. A couple of strokes will then remove the corner, repeat for the other corner and then remove the burr on t'other side in the normal way.
Whatever you do, don't to this on a waterstone if you'd like to keep a pristine surface or you'll end up with a nice pointy groove in the stone's surface Use a diamond stone (not a 'holy' one either) or an old oilstone - Rob |
Or a new oilstone. If you do normal freehand honing you adjust the pressure from one side to the other with a sort of twist. You don't lift the stone off at all and from the outside it doesn't look different from the normal movement - you merely shift the pressure.
This gives you a camber eventually, which is better than knocking the corners off IMHO.
I'ts kinda obvious and with a little practice becomes really easy. |
Jacob, just to clarify here, I wasn't talking about producing a camber, rather knocking the corners off a straight blade - Rob
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