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frugal
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Joined: 29 Dec 2007
Posts: 914
Location: Dursley, Gloucestershire

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 1:33 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

jlawrence wrote:
I can see the point in buying the likes of LN et al, but I disagree that it's a good move for someone who is just starting out with hand tools - ie still learning a) how to plane something, and b) how a plane works. That person would be me Smile.


The only problem with that is you never know if it is your technique that is causing problems or the tool. It was not until I tried David C's plane at Yandles that I realised how badly set up mine was and that I needed to fettle it.

Even now I do not know if the tear out I get is from a poor tool or poor technique.

Of course if you buy an expensive plane you will not initially know if your problems are due to your technique or how you have adjusted the tool. My L/N block plane was a joy to use until I first sharpened it, then my poor sharpening technique caused me problems and the performance of the tool went down, but it was not until I got better at sharpening that I realised.

All of this rambling is just to say: Why should it be an either/or question. The quality of the result will depend (amongst other things) on the build quality of the tool, the way that the tool has been adjusted and the way that the tool is used. You can not target one aspect in isolation, you need to improve on all of them to a certain level (and a certain level of experience) before you can say which one is causing you problems.

This is one of the reasons that learning from more experienced people is often the best way to go.
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Charlotte
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Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 67
Location: Kingston, London/Gloucestershire

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 1:54 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to butt in in a thead, but I'm going to go plane shopping shortly. My budget is car boot due to woeful work situation at the moment.

I want a block plane and a smoother or jack and am wondering about wooden planes, though I have never used them. I've seen check lists for second hand planes but don't own a portable known flat surface and do not fancy wandering around a boot sale with a file of web wisdom anyhow. I was going to opt for the rustiest with the shortest irons on the basis that a short iron=hard life=good tool but would love to hear some other suggestions.

Many thanks
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woodbloke
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Joined: 13 Apr 2006
Posts: 8862
Location: Salisbury,UK...counting down the pay cheques...20, or it might be 19

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 2:35 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Charlotte wrote:
Sorry to butt in in a thead, but I'm going to go plane shopping shortly. My budget is car boot due to woeful work situation at the moment.

I want a block plane and a smoother or jack and am wondering about wooden planes, though I have never used them. I've seen check lists for second hand planes but don't own a portable known flat surface and do not fancy wandering around a boot sale with a file of web wisdom anyhow. I was going to opt for the rustiest with the shortest irons on the basis that a short iron=hard life=good tool but would love to hear some other suggestions.

Many thanks

Wandering around a car booty is fraught with danger unless you know what you are doing...you might pick up something half decent or a load of tat. Much better to contact Ray Isles (by 'fone Wink ) here or somewhere like Penny Farthing Tools here in Salisbury. A decent jack or smoother in good condition at PFT (and there are lots of them) can be had for around £25ish depending on usage, block planes are harder to come by. There's an auction on at the moment for a DX60 (which was mine, so I can vouch for it) but that's now probably out of your price bracket Crying or Very sad - Rob
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lurker
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Joined: 02 Mar 2007
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Location: Leicestershire

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 2:45 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Charlotte,

IMHO Car boot planes & a bit of a fettle are the best deal unless you go to +£150 new level.

Most you see will be Stanley 4 & 4.5s - I'd rarely pay more than £5 for a reasonable one. If you know what you are doing you can pick up jems.
For example a Record SS will look much like a stanley bog standard but are worth 10X the amount. And works 5x as well. one marked record are better than Stanleys (usually)

Woodies are fine - sometimes booters think they are old & rare again £5 would be a max for me.

Try to "see past" the rust for cracks otherwise you can't go far wrong at £5 even if the Sole is unuseable the bits will come in useful.

In my experience a boot sale will yield nothing 4 times out of 5 but the 5th one you will strike gold.
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Vann
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Joined: 15 Oct 2008
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Location: Petone, New Zealand

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:51 am Post subject: Reply with quote

jlawrence wrote:
...If you buy a 'good' plane straight off then how do you know if it's set up correctly - you don't, you have to rely on the manufacturer setting it up.
I don't think this argument holds water !!

If you're going to struggle with the minor amount of fettling/setting-up required on a LV/LN/Clifton, how the heck are you going to manage all the fettling required on a cheap plane?

In my case, I bought a new Stanley in 1973 and could never master it. I thought it was just me (I still have it in it's original box in the garage - almost unused). Last year I splashed out on a LV LAJ. Boy what a revelation Shocked I can plane !!!

Cheers, Vann.
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woodbloke
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 2:40 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Vann wrote:

In my case, I bought a new Stanley in 1973 and could never master it. I thought it was just me (I still have it in it's original box in the garage - almost unused). Last year I splashed out on a LV LAJ. Boy what a revelation Shocked I can plane !!!

Cheers, Vann.

V- put a straight edge accross the sole of the Stanley...I saw one of a similar vintage where the sole was concave by about 2mm Shocked in the centre.
Agree though about the LV LA jack Wink - Rob
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jlawrence
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Joined: 14 Feb 2009
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:48 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Vann wrote:
I don't think this argument holds water !!
If you're going to struggle with the minor amount of fettling/setting-up required on a LV/LN/Clifton, how the heck are you going to manage all the fettling required on a cheap plane?



Perhaps I worded it wrongly.
When you're just starting out (like me), you have no idea what a well setup plane should work like. So it doesn't matter whether it's a tiny amount of fettling or a big amount that needs doing - you still don't have a clue where to start.
As pointed out, there's probably nothing better than having someone with experience help you learn.
I don't have the time available to take a course in order to learn, so I need to find out the hard way - as well as pick things up from asking questions at shows/bashes when/if I can get to one.
I'd rather rip to bits a cheap plane in order to start learning how it works (or should work) than risk wrecking a good plane.
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Smudger
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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:47 am Post subject: Reply with quote

When I started bodging seriously I began by buying cheap planes and fettling them. People told me not to bother, to buy at least one quality plane to start with. I didn't, of course, believe them.
It didn't, really, go that well, until I bought a properly well set-up Stanley Jack off ebay. That gave me some clues, but it was being taken into someone else's workshop to use some quality planes - Lie Nielsens, Spiers infills etc - that I really understood.
Then I could go back to the old Records and Stanleys, and work on them to make them good. And they can be.
I think that to start with an old rust magnet with not much to go on is harder work than it needs to be.
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Benchwayze
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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:05 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are going to attempt fettling a Stanley or Record plane, you might be better advised to find a pre-WWII model on eBay.

You will probably have to fettle, but in my view you might as well invest the work into a decent casting, and probably a decent blade.

But be careful. I bought a low-front knob No. 4. It was an old plane for sure, and it was a well-balanced tool, with a comfortable tote.

Close examination proved it to be a bit of a mongrel though and parts didn't match up the date on the casting. The worst feature is the 'opposite thread' on the adjuster mechanism. I am used to clockwise motion to advance the blade, and even fettled, this oldie frustrates me a lot as I keep forgetting. So it doesn't get much use.

Edit... I think any decent oldie can be serviceable. As long as the sole is flat at the toe, around the mouth and at the heel, usually they will perform, given that a effort is put into sharpening.

You can get a metal plane looking brand new, but for general work it isn't absolutely necessary. It is nice to prove that they can produce shavings as fine as any of the expensive planes.. But again, is it necessary?

Regards
John Smile
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maltrout512
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Joined: 23 May 2008
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Location: Petworth, West Sussex

Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 5:32 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an idea, why not buy a second hand one. I have bought most of mine from a tool shop (2nd hand) in Yapton, Leeside I think their name is. As you are in Surrey a shortish trip down there and see their line up. No 4 Stanleys from about £15. I bought a stan/Bailey no 3 for £6.00. In poor condition, New handles cost £16 and a new blade. A couple of hours later I had it all cleaned and back together and taking a shaving off oak down to .7 mm. IMO I'm more than pleased with that.
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Smudger
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Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 5:41 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

JB - I've just cottoned on that you are in Surrey; in Wallington there is the Old Tool Shop - the stock is quite variable, but I've picked up a number of planes there. Open on some evenings and all day Saturdays, on Stafford Rod opposite Sainsburys, next to the Public Hall. If you want I can pop in and see what he's got in.
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Dibs-h
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:56 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

woodbloke wrote:

Much better to contact Ray Isles (by 'fone Wink ) [url=http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/] here


I bought one off him last Nov at Harrogate - very good value for money for a 1st plane or 3.
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Smudger
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 6:04 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Dibs-h wrote:
woodbloke wrote:

Much better to contact Ray Isles (by 'fone Wink ) [url=http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/] here


I bought one off him last Nov at Harrogate - very good value for money for a 1st plane or 3.


Any idea what his prices for a Record 5 1/2 are?
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brian68
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:05 am Post subject: Planes Reply with quote

big soft moose wrote:
matthewwh wrote:
If you are after a cheap but sensible plane and can hold on for a few weeks I may have an alternative for you.

Quangsheng originally designed their planes to a spec supplied by Woodcraft in the USA where they are marketed as wood river planes. They are still a country mile off the sort of standards that we see from Clifton, but they have got the fundamentals right.

I have yet to use one, but I have had copies of the spec sheets from their materials suppliers and photographs of their production processes, all of which strike me as being correct. My only concern so far is their use of water hardening steel for the irons (the chinese equivalent of W1). This varies greatly upon the qualities of the water in which it is hardened, do it in Sheffield (UK), Pittsburgh (USA) or Miki City (Japan) water - lovely jubbly, do it 50 miles away from any of those places and it has the potential to be absolutely diabolical. Believe it or not Ashley Iles (the man not the company) used to drive to Sheffield and import water to Lincolnshire a truckload at a time just to harden his steel in, it really is that important. AI eventually switched over to O1 which has virtually identical properties but can be hardened anywhere in oil. Most of the Sheffield manufacturers now use O1 because it is so consistant and so good, even though they have the right water to harden W1 availabe on tap.

I won't be able to tell until I sharpen it, but as a pre emptive countermeasure I have started buying up English made O1 blades to retro fit if the Chinese made ones are not up to snuff.

I'll keep you posted.


I saw these on your blog and am awaiting them with baited breath , what no.s are you importing ? - I really need a big plane like a 6 or 7 but theres no way i can afford the clifton/veritas/neisen prices and ive been unable to find an old stanley or record.


www.toolmanonline.co.uk has already got these planes in stock, I emailed them and comfirmed, they also said next week they have the rebate block plane arriving and the edge trimming plane along with a different look block from what they have in already!
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matthewwh
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Joined: 05 Jul 2006
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Location: North Oxfordshire

Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:57 am Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Brian,

Your link has been caught in the spam trap I'm afraid, it stops after you've posted a few more times.

here's the link

I'm surprised he went for the edging plane as they only do one rather than a pair which makes it a bit useless. I mentioned it to the factory and they sent me an email a few days later saying that they were unavailable at present.

I did however go for the rebate block which looks like a really useful bit of kit as well as the spokeshave and some lovely little brass mallets that they do as well.

The latest news is that we have had a chat with TNT about faster shipping so they should be available at the beginning of December, just in time for our two week long free UK shipping offer!
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