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PostPosted: 19 Oct 2008, 13:39 
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Anyone any experience of these ?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axmi ... -21303.htm

I'd only be cutting a few threads so don't need lifetime quality.

Andrew


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PostPosted: 19 Oct 2008, 13:47 
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Over here on my side of the pond we use about the same thing only its called a Beall Wood thread Box about the same thing you have a picture of and it works quite well.I just wish I could find one that would do 2-3 " ones

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PostPosted: 19 Oct 2008, 13:49 
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Bought one for my father a couple of years ago. He made me a pair of wooden clamps using them that work very nicely. He only uses it occasionally but is very pleased with it.

Mark


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PostPosted: 19 Oct 2008, 13:54 
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It seems a good match for the price / occasional use so I might try one. Thanks for the inputs.

Andrew


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PostPosted: 22 Oct 2008, 21:48 
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If you get it can you do a review? I'm thinking about one too, thanks

Aidan

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PostPosted: 23 Oct 2008, 10:01 
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I have one and it works quite well. One limitation is on the male thread - you can't get a thread right down to a shoulder - if you see what I mean - there's quite a gap, as the shouldered part prevents all the tenon getting into the die cutting part.

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PostPosted: 26 Oct 2008, 15:49 
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Works pretty well on the beech I'm trying it on right now, especially if you remember to oil it like the instructions say. The tap looks like it might last longer than the thread cutter but time will tell and at my expected work rate that should be many, many years.

Like Nick said you can't thread right down to a shoulder but for me that is not a problem.

I'm still all excited about my new bandsaw - for some reason my better half seems hugely unimpressed when I come running upstairs exclaiming "look, the skim I just cut off the face is so thin you can almost see through it". 6 yr old son is always duly impressed (which is why there is a lock on the power).


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PostPosted: 29 Oct 2008, 10:17 
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NickWelford wrote:
I have one and it works quite well. One limitation is on the male thread - you can't get a thread right down to a shoulder - if you see what I mean - there's quite a gap, as the shouldered part prevents all the tenon getting into the die cutting part.



.


Apologies if Axminster has altered their design since I bought my set of thread boxes about 15 years ago, but there is an entry guide consisting of a wooden block on the face of the box that guides the dowel into the cutter box.

It’s held in place on the entry face of the screw box by a couple of screws and when removed, gives access to the vee cutter underneath.

In use, the cutter cuts the thread first and it is held in place and advanced at the correct rate by a metal thread behind that follows on the thread you have just cut.

I have successfully cut threads to within a gnat’s nibbler of a shoulder by starting the thread in the normal way until reaching the shoulder, where it stops. You then unscrew it, and remove this block to complete the last 3/4” or so.
In this way the cutter is able to travel right up to the shoulder. You will need to tidy up the ragged end of the thread with a small pointed knife.

For a nice finish, return it to the lathe if possible, and undercut a groove at the end of the thread beside the shoulder.

Whatever you do DON’T alter the Vee cutter’s position. They are a first class pig to get right if moved.

Hope this helps

.


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PostPosted: 29 Oct 2008, 20:40 
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Yes they still make them the same way :)


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PostPosted: 30 Oct 2008, 18:43 
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AndrewC wrote:
Yes they still make them the same way :)





There you go, Andrew. Threads all the way to the hilt. The secret is to cut all your threads as far as they will go before you unscrew the block, then thread it back on and complete the last few threads.

However, be careful with beech - it splits out on the threads like nothing else.


.


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PostPosted: 30 Oct 2008, 20:16 
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I'll just add my experience. I bought one many years ago, used it once and then lost the tap. :oops:
I felt that the tap didn't cut a very good thread in the beech I was using, but I was going down the end grain.


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