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| Building a T&G Door - Page 2 |
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| Written by Charley | |
| Monday, 24 May 2004 | |
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To set the router bit height, lay one of the rail pieces down flat on the router table and adjust the cutter height so it's flush with the inside of the groove as shown in the picture to your right.  (click photo to enlarge) This step is optional but it does help to prevent tear out. With a square and a marking/stanley knife carefully cut a line 10mm from the end, all the way around each end of both the rails.  (click photo to enlarge) Go back to the router table, plug it back into the mains and with the mitre gauge, cut a tongue on a sample piece of wood the same thickness as the rail pieces. Try the cut out on one of the stiles and adjust the router bit height if necessary. Once you're happy rout the tongues on both ends of the real rail pieces. To prevent tear out and to support the short rail pieces I secured a scrap piece of wood to the mitre gauge.  (click photo to enlarge) Once everything has been cut, do a dry fit to make sure all the joints are square and flush. Although you shouldn't have to, you can 'tweak' the joints with a chisel or shoulder plane. On one of the rail pieces apply glue to the tongues (tenons) then attach the two stiles to each side.  (click photo to enlarge) Slide in the panel without any glue. The idea is to allow the panel to float. I used 6mm mahogany but if you don't want to use real wood you could use veneered MDF/Ply or even just use plain MDF/Ply.  (click photo to enlarge) Add the final rail, clamp up, wipe any excess glue with a damp cloth then leave to dry..  (click photo to enlarge) After the glue has had chance to dry (over night is best) remove the door from the clamps and give it a sanding. If you used good flat, straight, square timber and took your time on setting up the router table all the joints should be square and flush and won't need much sanding.  (click photo to enlarge) |
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