|
Written by Charley
|
|
Wednesday, 13 March 2002
|
 |
The
Corner Bridle Joint!!
The tools
you will need are:-
1. Tenon Saw
2. Mortise Gauge
3. Try Square
4. Sharp Bevel Edge Chisel
5. Pencil
6. Drill and drill bit.
7. Ruler/Tape Measure
8. Bench Vice or Workmate
9. Bench Hook
|
 |
For the bridle
joint, one of the pieces to be joined needs a tenon and the mating piece
needs a groove.
To make this
simpler to explain 'A' will be the piece with the groove & 'B' will
be the tenon piece!
|
 |
Take piece
'B' and lay it flat on your workbench/workmate. Then take piece 'A' and
lay it on piece 'B' as shown in the photo to your left - making sure
the side of piece 'A' is flush with the end of piece 'B'. (ie at right
angles to each other)
With a pencil,
mark the width of the timber onto piece 'B' using the mating piece 'A'
as a guide.
|
 |
Using a try
square and pencil, follow the line all the way around.
Do this
and the step above on the mating piece ('A').
|
 |
Using a ruler,
you now want to set the mortise gauge.
When doing
mortise and tenon, the general rule is to make the width 1/3 of the thickness
of the wood. The same applies to the bridle joint.
|
 |
With your
mortise gauge, gouge lines on both edges from the shoulder line to the
end of the wood. Also gouge a line on the top of the piece (the end grain)
- Do this on both 'A' & 'B'......
As I said
before "A good tip so you don't go past the line is to put a small
indentation just before the line, using your mortise gauge - so when you
gouge the line, the pin on the marking gauge should fall into it, therefore
stopping you going too far" and "When using the marking gauge
it's best to hold it at a slight angle and to take several light passes.
By doing this you should be left with a nice straight gouge line".
Once both
pieces have been gouged mark out the waste sides! (left ->) Remember
piece 'A' will have the groove and piece 'B' will be the tenon.
|
 |
|
To
make it easier, on piece 'A' in the centre above the shoulder
line drill a hole all the way thorugh the wood.
I've
used a forstner bit which is 1mm smaller then the width of the
tenon & groove.
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
 |
|
(Fig
1)
|
(Fig2)
|
(Fig3)
|
It's
now time to cut down to the shoulder lines on both pieces, remember to
cut on the waste side of the gouge lines.
Clamp
one of the pieces into your vice or workmate at about a 45° angle,
with the end facing away from you. With a tenon saw, saw down the waste
side of each gouge line keeping the saw parallel with your bench/workmate
(fig1). Making sure you don't go past the shoulder line.
Unclamp
the work piece and turn it around so the edge faces you and continue cutting
down the gouge lines (fig2). Then place the piece upright in the
vice/workmate and saw down to the shoulder line (fig3).
|
 |
With a sharp
bevel edge chisel square up the round edge left by the drill hole on piece
'A.'
|
 |
Using
a bench hook and tenon saw, cut along the shoulder line on piece 'B', on
both sides to remove the waste pieces. |
 |
Test
the fit of the pieces. They should fit fine but if the tenon's a bit tight,
clean it up with a bevel edge chisel. |
 |
There
you have it! A very strong and nice looking joint. |
|