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| Garden Planters - Page 3 |
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| Written by Charley | |
| Sunday, 13 July 2003 | |
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With the plywood bottom on top of a scrap piece of wood, drill the 5 drainage holes with a 22mm forstner or spade bit.  (click photo to enlarge) Once the glue has had chance to cure (left over night is best) remove the clamps and try the plywood bottom in place! If it's too tight use a block plane and you can use a chisel to 'pare' the notch's.  (click photo to enlarge) The polyurethane glue foams so we need to carfully remove the foam with a sharp bevel edge chisel. Give the planter a good sand by hand or with a power sander. A sander like a delta is best as it can get into the tight corners. We started off with 80G (grit) sandpaper then finished with 100G (a finer grit).  (click photo to enlarge) Using a block plane, chamfer all four posts top and bottom. The bottom ends only need a slight chamfer to help prevent splitting if the planter is ever dragged across the ground. Hold the block plane at an angle and plane across the grain first, then with grain.  (click photo to enlarge) That's all the woodwork done. We haven't decided on a finish for them yet but we're either going to oil or paint them.  (click photo to enlarge) For this project we used the router & router table for most of the machining! Don't worry if you haven't got a table, you can still easily build the planter with the router on its own with its guide fence and a simple jig. In the inset picture on your right we're cutting the grooves with the router and guide fence and have clamped an extra post to help support the router. The main picture on your right we're cutting the tenons with a router & the help of a simple jig.  (click photo to enlarge) |
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