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| Garden Planters - Page 2 |
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| Written by Charley | |
| Sunday, 13 July 2003 | |
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Next, run all eight rail pieces through on one side only. There's no need to lower these pieces over the router bit as the groove runs end to end. We are using a push stick to aid the work piece along the fence and our free hand to keep the piece tight up against the fence. Raise the router cutter height to 11mm and run all the post & rail pieces through again. With all the grooves cut to their final depth of 11mm, we unplugged the router from the power and replaced the router bit with a 18mm 1/2" shank cutter. We used the tenon jig to cut the tenons on the rail pieces. Use the rail piece with the tenon layout (which you marked right at the start) to help setup the router bit height and fence. Don't try cutting the full depth in one pass; set the router bit height half the way, run all the pieces through, then raise the router bit up the the final height. Running a test piece through first is a good idea to make sure it's all setup correctly Once all the routing has been done you need to square off the round corners on all four of the posts with a sharp bevel edge chisel. It's time for a dry assembly of the frame. This is where you can see it take shape. Make sure everything's square and the joints all fit snugly. Label every joint to help save time and mistakes when gluing up i.e. Where one end of the rail joins one side of the post label them 'a' and the next 'b' etc.. For the panels (sides) we're using 95mm x 12mm tongue & groove that has a 'v' groove on only one side. You need to cut 16 pieces 340mm long. We measured one, cut it and used that as the template for the rest. We used four boards of T&G per side but as they are 95mm wide each (including the tongues), that makes the total width 360mm and it needs to be 350mm so we took off 5mm on both of the end boards. On four of the T&G pieces take 5mm off the 'tongue' side and on another 4 take 5mm of the 'groove' side. You can use a table or bandsaw if you have one, but it doesn't take long with a block plane. If you use a hand plane as we did, you can mark how much needs to come off with a pencil/marking gauge. Glue up time! Glue up's can be a nightmare, you have to be quick enough so the glue doesn't start to go off but when you rush things go wrong! Layout every thing before hand and plan what steps to take to assemble. We used a polyurethane glue which cures in the presence of moisture, claims to be 100% waterproof and is very,very strong - so it's ideal for our garden planters. Wear gloves as if you get this stuff on your hands it will be with you for a couple of days. Apply glue to the tenons and moisten the groove with a damp cloth. Don't glue the T&G panels in place as you want them to be able to move about when the wood expands/contracts. We glued and clamped one side up first, checked for square by measuring the diagonals & then put it to one side. We then did the same with the opposite side, but layed it down flat on the work bench with inside facing upwards. We glued in place the last four rails, inserted the T&G panels & then placed the first side we glued up, on top of the four rails and aligned the tenons with the grooves. Then, using a mallet and a scrap piece of wood lightly tapped everything into place and finally added four more clamps and measured the diagonals. We can honestly say (beyond our amazement) it was spot on. Normally when we all work togeather something goes wrong. While you wait for the glue to cure you can be making the bottom. Cut a bit of plywood to 360mm x 360mm. With a ruler and pencil draw a line diagonally from corner to corner & then from the center point mark four lines 120mm on the diagonal line (as shown in the picture) These marks are to show were to drill the drainage holes. Then on each corner mark a notch 17mm x 17mm. |
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