Recent content by TomGW

The issue is caused by the bricks absorbing water and then freezing (expanding) and 'blowing' the face off - known as spalling. The top, capping, row of bricks will be the worst affected, as that's the most exposed to absorbing rainwater. However, in a retaining situation the whole wall will...

I don't want to hijack someone else's thread but there's little point in duplication either. I am looking for a decent, accurate biscuit jointer and would like to know what is considered the best at a reasonable price level. I couldn't justify a Lamello but I'm willing to pay what's necessary to...

That's what I expected. Tech7 should stick well to the SS. I'm surprised that it didn't stick to bare plasterboard, but if you had allowed the Tech7 to dry a bit and maybe the plasterboard a bit dusty, it's potentially not a good combination. Also, if Tech7 wasn't a fresh tube it can begin to...

From your description I think that you have a simple mono pitch structure and it's a mono pitch ridge tile that would normally be used. Expensive for a log store at £70 a pop for 'slate' type. As suggested, a short length of square, black downspout ripped to provide an 'L' profile and then heat...

That was certainly a serious bodge. Would it be possible to remove the slate mantle? If you could, it would be fairly easy to shorten it by the missing amount, then shape the corner to match and polish the edges. Slate is fairly easy to cut and polish. If the shortened mantle was re-centred it...

Rather than have a filler panel between the chimney breast and the shelves, you could cut a tapered piece of 2x2 to give a true, vertical edge, screw and stick to the front side of the breast and skrim/fill to blend with the plaster finish on the face.

Check out the Hejne shelf range at IKEA for basic timber shelving. I doubt that you could buy the materials any cheaper...

When you say Tech7 didn't work, which material didn't it stick to?

Your original question focused on the description of the use, or use class, of the building for the purposes of your application for water and sewer connections. From what you’ve said, I’m making a couple of assumptions here. I’m assuming that the building is owned by you but, while not on the...

The shape of the bracket is the relevant consideration. A standard castor, with mounting points equidistant on either side of the axle, has the load at 90 degrees off the vertical surface and importantly has the mounting points close together. The photo the OP referenced has a bracket that...

SLW? Systematic Lumpsum Withdrawal?? I've found OSB to be unexpectedly robust, unpainted, outdoors and exposed to the elements. For example, a part sheet on top of a cement mixer to protect from the weather - 2 years on its still fully intact and doing the job perfectly. I've extended to the...

Mounting a fixed castor on its side would result in serious leverage that's liable pull it off the tool stand. It should be ok if you could fabricate an 'L' mount to allow it to be mounted upright and further outboard. Alternatively you could consider these...

You could simply use an 8 point socket of the appropriate size to suit your tap. 8point sockets are designed for square nuts. Alternatively go for these...

Are you going to disconnect and remove the sink to install it in the new worktop? If you are, then the best solution is to make a custom ‘corner’ cabinet to fill the entire space, with a pair of doors that open the whole corner. I would suggest a half height, removable back panel, obviously...